Timbuktu: City of legend

Consider yourself to be an adventurous traveller? A visit to the remote, semi-mythical African city of Timbuktu proves that real travel is all about the journey as well as the destination, as Greg Cook discovers.

Through the heart of Mali, a land-locked nation set inside the jutting rump of west Africa, there is a delta. It is an impossibly broad body of water tasselled with ribbon islands; it is the River Niger.

On its northern bank lies a town, beyond which the first dunes of the vast Sahara retract in waves to the horizon. To the west the full moon is still setting - an oily-yellow ball of fat falling into a cauldron of scrub and sand. To the east the sun stains the sky an almost inexplicable shade of crimson. As the dull flanks of mud-brick buildings begin to glow in the emerging light, the desert city of Timbuktu comes alive.

The once-fabled Timbuktu remains firmly set in the western imagination as somewhere just outside the map - and clinging as it does to the cartographically blank Sahara, the reality isn't actually that different.

However, visiting Timbuktu in the 21st century no longer requires an explorer's iron will and an entourage of native Tuareg tribesmen able to navigate the desert by reading the texture of the sand. But it still takes a bit of doing, which for most travellers is what continues to make the journey worthwhile.

A desert track leading to the mythical city © Bryony Sheamur Photography

For most western visitors, the journey to Timbuktu begins on the tarmac at Mali's only international airport, situated a few kilometres south of the country's capital Bamako.

To describe Bamako as a textbook example of a large city in a developing nation really doesn't do justice to either its best or worst elements.

The capital is low-rise and polluted. The air consists of a cocktail of red west-African dust, fully-leaded exhaust and smouldering rubbish. Spend just one morning around its main roads and you feel like you've inhaled a box of pencils. But in a city flung across 40sq km and bisected by the Niger River, motor vehicles are a grim necessity.

However what the city offers as abundantly as pollution is bustle, colour, an amazing array of bars and clubs playing some of the best live music on the continent. Not to mention La Gare Routiere Songoniko, the bus terminal from which buses leave daily for the port town of Mopti on the first leg of the journey to Timbuktu.

Fishermen casting nets on Niger inland delta © Bryony Sheamur Photography

It's worth mentioning that nothing will happen according to anything written on a timetable. Buses leave only when full, which means their height has been doubled with a roof-load of white goods, motor bikes and feed sacks, and the aisles have been filled with livestock and yet more local travellers. The journey time for the 460km trip to Mopti is cheerfully advertised at eight hours but has been known to take two days.

Stay optimistic and prepared by splitting the difference.
Mopti, a raucous riverbank town spanning the southern bank of the Niger, is roughly halfway to Timbuktu, and from here are two options for onward travel.

The most expedient is overland by booking a seat in one of the numerous shared 4x4s. It is relatively easy going at first, until you arrive at Douentza, a small impoverished village, where the asphalt ends and a bone-shaking day's journey along a dirt track ensues. It culminates in an unforgettable trip across the Niger where herdsmen regularly drive skidding cattle tumbling up the metal ramps of a small car-ferry and in between the tightly packed land-cruisers.

This mode of transport will land you on the Niger's northern bank in Korioume, the village on the doorstep of Timbuktu and conveniently connected by 10km of tarmac road, within one long day (unless of course you miss the last ferry leaving at sunset).

Women carrying water outside Mopti © Bryony Sheamur Photography

But for the more romantic traveller, Mopti offers the chance to take the rest of the journey by boat, travelling for the next two or three days through the unique and beautiful Niger inland delta, spending nights on deck or camped around fires on the riverbank.

When the water is high enough, roughly between July and December, passage can be booked on one of the large steamer ferries regularly running this stretch of river. However, during the dry season, you'll need to travel by pinasse or piroge, the smaller private boats that carry a mixture of goods and passengers.

Once on board, it's easy to attune to the sedate, rolling rhythm of river travel. Watch local fishermen in the late afternoon sun fling their nets in silhouette across the silver water; maybe spot a hippo or two in the seasonal Lake Debo, and float past Naifunke, the village home of legendary world-blues guitarist Ali Farka Toure. This has to be the most evocative way to arrive at your destination.

Robed Taureg man resting in tent outside Timbuktu @ © Bryony Sheamur Photography

The Timbuktu of today may have changed somewhat since its 15th-century heyday, when its fame as one of the most prosperous trading points in Africa gave rise to the legend of a city sprung from a land of gold. These days,the straggling markets and roadside stalls appear to sell an identically limited inventory of sour oranges and grubby sachets of mobile-phone top-up cards.

However Timbuktu still offers more to its visitors than the mere kudos of arriving. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the old town offers ancient mosques built in the region's unique mud-brick style, a vernacular that looks at first glance like the work of some long-extinct species of giant ant.

Of its three mosques, the Djingareiber Mosque, built in 1325, is the oldest and is open to tourists, while the Sankori Mosque once housed the town's university, one of the world's greatest seats of learning during the middle ages.

These days there's also a modest but reasonable array of hotels, hostels and restaurants throughout the town - the medium-priced Hotel Boctou with its bustling terrace restaurant being arguably one of the most popular.

But it's not the mud-brick buildings or their inhabitants that make Timbuktu special. The magic comes from simple fact it really does exist and the thrill of being there - creating the sensation that, now you're actually here, everywhere else is strangely far away.
Author: Greg Cook

16 November 2009

Trekking in Nepal

Gentle and welcoming Nepal attracts a continual stream of trekkers to its impressive portion of the jagged Himalayas. For her first trekking holiday, Ruth-Ellen Davis joined walkers of all ages and abilities on the Annapurna Base Camp trek: a beautiful introduction to mountain life.

Annapurna Base Camp

Annapurna Base Camp © Ruth-Ellen Davis

While Mount Everest is the country's most famed mountainous member, it is the heavily forested Annapurna Conservation Area, with its tumbling waterfalls and manageable routes, that is the most popular destination for trekking in Nepal. The Annapurna Base Camp trek (often referred to as the ABC) follows a 10-day loop through pretty mountain villages and verdant paths. Trekkers are on foot for around five or six hours a day. Stops include rustic Ghorepani, which features a 0430 trek up nearby Poon Hill to watch the sparkling sunrise over the Himalayas; tranquil Chomrong, boasting clear mountain views and the best pizza on the Annapurna circuit; and leafy Jhinu, situated by steamy natural hot springs.

Nepalese mountain life

Mountain lodge © Ruth-Ellen Davis

The ABC trek gives travellers a real taste of Nepalese mountain life. Sturdy mountain porters - who haul bags of goods up the mountainside by taking the substantial strain via a strap round their forehead - frequently trudge by, and trekkers often find themselves accompanied on their morning path by children tripping their way to school. Fields are scattered with workers harvesting crops, and lumbering cattle dragging metal tools over the soil, while in the peaceful villages, sheets piled with grain lay drying in the sun.

Challenging conditions

The route has its challenges, with steep inclines, uneven surfaces strewn with loose rock, and the odd need to pick your own stony path across streams. The ascent to Annapurna Base Camp, typically on day five or six, can be tough on tired bodies coping with low temperatures and high altitudes. Annapurna Base Camp is 4,130m (13,550ft) above sea level and altitude sickness is not uncommon as the final ascent is quite sharp, and trekkers get little time to acclimatise; my porter fell ill with altitude sickness during the Base Camp section of our trek.

Guides and porters

Nepalese guide © Ruth-Ellen Davis

Guides are full of local knowledge and, as well as ensuring you stay on the right path, their commentary can greatly enhance your experience. Many trekkers carry a small day bag themselves with water, camera and money, and give the rest of their luggage to a porter; it is strongly advised that travellers hire one through a reputable agency that ensures porters have all necessary clothing for mountain conditions. The weight limit for porters to carry in Nepal is 30kg, although 20kg is widely considered to be more reasonable.

When to go

Poon Hill © Ruth-Ellen Davis

October is the most popular month for trekking in Nepal: skies are clear, days are warm, and the recent monsoon season means emerald greenery shrouds the landscape. But higher up the mountains the small amount of lodges struggle - and often fail - to cater for the scrambling masses.

November offers similar conditions to October, but with far less people clogging up the lodges.

Higher areas are pretty inhospitable in December and January, but the Poon Hill trek, which covers the lower section of the ABC, is fine this time of year, and a pretty sprinkling of snow is almost guaranteed. April and May is also a lovely time to visit the Annapurna region.

Trekking essentials

Annapurna © Ruth-Ellen Davis

Aside from sturdy shoes, hat, gloves, and a wind-proof jacket, don't forget:

Waterproofs: For yourself and your backpack.

Plastic bags: Ensure clothes stay dry by packing them in plastic bags inside your backpack.

Four season's sleeping bag: Night times in the mountains can get pretty nippy and the walls of trekking lodges are generally very thin.

Earplugs: Paper-thin walls also mean that just because you're not in the same room as someone doesn't mean you can't hear them snore.

Cash: Anything not grown in the mountains has to be hauled up by man or donkey so food and drink can be pricey. (On a particularly hungry day I paid the equivalent of £3.50 for a packet of Pringles). There are no ATMs once you get going so take enough to see you through. My guide advised allowing for Rs 2,000 (£16) a day; I spent around Rs 1,500 (£12) a day.

First aid kit: Painkillers with anti-inflammatory; blister plasters; anti-sickness tablets; high factor sun cream.

Water bottle: Bottled mineral water is not available at the higher points. Trekking lodges will fill water bottles with purified/pre-boiled water for a small charge.

Thermals: Not attractive, but boy do they keep out the cold.

Getting there

Try to land in daylight for the adrenaline-inducing sight of the Himalayas rising through the clouds. Qatar Airways operate regular flights from London Heathrow to Kathmandu via Doha.

I booked my trek through UK-based Nepal specialists Nepal Travel Plan, who offer a range of treks throughout the Himalayas, including Annapurna Base Camp and Everest Base Camp, complete with experienced guides and porters.

Nepal Travel Plan can also arrange an exciting selection of experiences throughout the country, perfect for winding down after a hearty trek. Their 'travel modules' include activity-filled stays in Chitwan National Park, where visitors can appreciate the beauty of the park from the back of an elephant, try their hand at washing an elephant, learn to cook traditional Nepalese dishes with the local Tharu community, and go in search of the one-horned Indian rhino and Bengal tiger. Those looking for a dose of urban culture can opt for fascinating guided tours around Kathmandu's exquisite temples, and the nearby dwellings of Patan and Bhaktapur.

Other top treks for beginners

Nepal isn't the only place to take your first mountain steps. Here are World Travel Guide's other top trekking destinations for beginners:

* Sapa, Vietnam
See soft green vistas whilst experiencing local country traditions.
* Chiang Mai, Thailand
Gorgeous tropical greenery characterises Thailand's popular trekking area.

* Patagonia, Argentina
Explore Argentina's diverse landscape, from still lakes to the peaks of the Andes.
* The Alps, France
The French Alps offer many manageable trekking paths, featuring rivers, waterfalls, greenery and wildlife.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis

10 November 2009

Geocaching in the Yorkshire Dales

"Vg fbhaqf nf vs guvf pnpur vf orarngu lbh!" the clue reads. But, while it may look like an attempt to represent the sound of a stifled sneeze in the written word, for geocachers - proponents of a new high-tech treasure hunt sport - it could mean the difference between discovering the prize or walking away empty-handed.

Unfortunately, for my inaugural geocaching hunt, I forgot to print out the code used to crack the clue. Bletchley Park it wasn't, but, stood in a damp churchyard in the middle of the Yorkshire Moors, I realised the scale of my school boy error.

Origins of geocaching

Geocaching on iPhone © Creative Commons / krossbow

Geocaching was devised by gadget geeks in 2000 when the global satellite positioning system was opened up to mere mortals (as opposed to the military). A guy in Oregon hid a ‘cache' - a small box - in the middle of the woods and gave his friend the coordinates. Using a GPS receiver, he followed the directions, just like on a sat nav, and found the prize. Thus was born geocaching - after thinking twice about calling it ‘stashing'.

As of 16 July 2009, there are 849, 790 caches hidden in more than 100 countries, and on all seven continents. There are thousands of urban caches in London, New York, Paris, Toronto, and many more camouflaged in countryside across the world; I would be fairly certain there is at least one within half an hour from where you're sitting. You can find one in your lunch break.

What's the prize?

Geocaches can contain all manner of whimsical items, pieces of information, coins that have moved around the world and you plant somewhere else, or, at its simplest, a log book and pencil. The idea is that you can take any prize and replace it with a like-valued item. But for geocachers, the prize is the least important element. It is an excuse to go places you may never have seen.

In urban areas, you can find a new coffee house, boutique shops, or in the country, a new walking or mountain biking route. But at its core is forcing the geocacher into the unknown. You become a 21st-century flâneur, guided on the whim of 27 GPS satellites. Well that, or maybe it's just a good fun treasure hunt.

Getting started

Geocaching: getting started © Daniel Neilson

1. All the caches are logged on www.geocaching.com. Register for free and type in your postcode, or the town where you want to start your quest from. This will draw up a list of caches.

2. Click on the name for more information about the cache. It will also give coordinates of either the cache's location or a starting point. Read the clue carefully, sometimes a maths quiz is thrown in to work out the coordinates, sometimes the information given in the first cache will lead you to the second and so on. And then maybe another coded hint. Print out the page - all of it.

3. Find a starting point, tap in the coordinates to your GPS. A specific outdoor handheld receiver is best, but a sat nav and GPS enabled phone (there is an excellent Geocaching application for the iPhone) will do the job just fine. A good OS map can be useful for footpaths, or finding the cache old school style.

4. When you find the exact location for the cache, this is where the hint comes in handy. The caches are usually in plastic weatherproof boxes, or in cities, they could be a film case. And eureka! Inside each cache must be a log book. Jot down your details and ponder the prizes. Geocaching etiquette says you must replace the prize with some of like value.

5. Sit in a nearby pub and relish in the joy of finding the treasure.

6. Log your find on www.geocaching.com.

7. Go plant your own.

Cathedral of the Dales

© Daniel Neilson

After following these steps, I arrive in Maham - a small village under the brooding Yorkshire Moor skies. Hikers and mountain bikers scurry around as I head into one of the Yorkshire Dales National Park Centres. The park authority has been instrumental in promoting geocaching in the UK and was an early adopter. So much so, that today, there is a computer dedicated to geocaching with guidelines. You can even hire an outdoor handheld GPS receiver for £5 a day and £50 deposit.

I choose a cache called Cathedral of the Dales in nearby Kirkby Malham. Up hill and down dale, I plod through the sun-dappled countryside passing abandoned farmhouses, ruined abbeys and stop at country pubs to read the history of the St Michael the Archangel, the Cathedral of the Dales. Briefly: built 1490, Oliver Cromwell was the witness at a wedding here, original stocks still in churchyard. The coordinates gradually count down.

Once I find the exact coordinates, I start to hunt. Behind gravestones, in some poor folk's garden (cue odd looks from passers by) cursing the fact I didn't print the second page off with the code. What the devil does "Vg fbhaqf nf vs guvf pnpur vf orarngu lbh!" mean? Arrgghh. Twenty minutes later, and getting considerably frustrated, my wife notices an oddly placed rock underneath a tree (was she once in the SAS?), lifts it and there it is. A little Tupperware box, filled with a doll, a purse, a key ring and a notebook.

I write ‘Daniel Neilson, 11 July 2009, www.worldtravelguide.net'. At least 50 people have found it earlier, including one the day before. Happy we head into the pub next door. When I return I work out the clue: "It sounds as if this cache is beneath yew!". See what they did.
Author: Daniel Neilson

20 July 2009

Wine-tasting break in Bordeaux

Month of the harvest, September is the perfect time to visit the world's most revered wine region: Bordeaux, southwest France. Watch the pickers collect the grapes, explore the underground barrel cellars and taste some fantastic wines while the sun shines and everyone on the vineyards is united by the passion of winemaking.

Book yourself a weekend this month and let us guide you through the perfect wine-tasting break in Bordeaux.

Bordeaux wine regions

Château Pontet-Canet's wooden vats © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

Bordeaux is home to undoubtedly the world's most famous wine regions, including Medoc, Saint Emilion (UNESCO World Heritage site), Sauternes and Graves.

On the left bank, more than 1,000 chateaux cover the distinctive Medoc area, whose eight appellations - Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Esthephe, Médoc, Haut-Medoc, Listrac and Moulis - share 16,500 hectares (40,772 acres) of vines. The 60 most prestigious wines in the world, the Grands Crus Classés (great growths), are all situated in this area. In 1855, the famous classification of France's wines took place, and these 60 names came out on top. They were further classified into five levels of growth (crus) at emperor Napoleon III's request.

Best wine route

La Route des Châteaux is the most famous of Bordeaux wine routes. It follows the D2 road along the left bank (Rive Gauche to the west) of the Gironde River through the Medoc vineyards and passes very famous names such as Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild and Palmer. Rent a car or join bus tours to discover the region and visit some chateaux.

Medoc chateaux tours

Château Pichon-Longueville © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

Chateaux are magical places to visit. Stroll through the vines, discover the cellars and taste world-class wine, often for very little money or even for free. Most chateaux open their doors to visitors all year but you will need to book in advance. Contact the chateaux directly or enquire at the Maison du Tourisme et du Vin de Pauillac, La Verrerie, Pauillac (tel: (05) 5659 0308).

WTG recommends...

* Château Gruaud-Larose (Saint-Julien, 2nd growth) (tel: (05) 5673 1520)
* Château Pichon-Longueville (Pauillac, 2nd growth) (tel: (05) 5673 1717)
* Château Giscours (Margaux, 3rd growth) (tel: (05) 5797 0920)
* Château Prieuré-Lichine (Margaux, 4th growth) (tel: (05) 5788 3628)
* Château Pontet-Canet (Pauillac, 5th growth) (tel: (05) 5659 0404)

Château Prieuré-Lichine's barrel cellar © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

Each appellation - and each wine - has its own taste and aromas. Saint Julien and Pauillac wines are full-bodied, while Margaux wines are more ‘feminine', tasting of red fruits. Discover how to taste wine in three steps, winemaking keywords and more with our guide to Everything you need to know when visiting a chateau.

You can buy wine directly at the chateaux, at the ‘Maison du Vin' or in wine shops. Alternatively, try online at www.chateauonline.co.uk and www.1855.com. Some of the best and most reliable vintages (millésimes) include 1998 (ready to drink now), 2000, 2003 and 2005.

Did you know?

The Bordeaux wine region has strong historical links with England, which originated in the 12th century when Henry II married Alienor d'Aquitaine. Aquitaine thus became English territory, and most of the Bordeaux wine was shipped over the Channel where it was - and still is - called ‘claret'. Everywhere else in the world, it's simply known as Bordeaux.

Where to stay in Medoc

Château Giscours © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

From 4-star hotels to B&Bs and camping sites, there are plenty of sleeping options in Bordeaux's Medoc region. To take your wine experience one step further, the best is to stay in a guest room au château.

WTG recommends...

Château Giscours
Three rooms full of charm offer stunning views on the famous Giscours vineyards. The stay also includes a tour of the property and its cellars, and wine tasting.
Labarde, Margaux
Tel: (05) 5797 0920.
Website: www.chateau-giscours.fr

What to eat

Château Mouton Rothschild's vintages © WTG / Coralie Modschiedler

Food and wine from the same region often make the best match and there's no better place to experience this than France. The Bordeaux region produces some fantastic beef, lamb and duck, which all pair with red Bordeaux wines. Fabulous foie gras and confit are also made from Bordeaux ducks. The beef and lamb of the area are sometimes prepared à la bordelaise: in a sauce made with red wine, ham, butter, shallots, thyme and parsley. The region is also known for its truffles and mushrooms. The Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary, meanwhile, provide shellfish and seafood (especially oysters) best served with Bordeaux's white wines.

WTG recommends...

Café Lavinal
Located in a very slickly refurbished square in the village of Bages (Medoc), Café Lavinal has all the charm of a French bistro, and excellent hearty and traditional food.
Place Desquet, Hameau de Bages, Pauillac
Tel: (05) 5775 0009.
Website: www.villagedebages.com

Getting there

Bordeaux wine regions © www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

Fly to Bordeaux with easyJet from London Luton, Bristol and Liverpool; British Airways from London Gatwick; or bmi from Manchester.

Bordeaux Mérignac Airport
Tel: (05) 5634 5000.
Website: www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr
The airport is located 12km (8 miles) from Bordeaux. Car hire companies include Avis, Budget, National/citer, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

More information

* Wine-tasting technique, grape varieties and winemaking keywords: find out Everything you need to know when visiting a chateau
* Map of the Bordeaux wine regions
* Map of the Medoc appellations
* Medoc guide, including contact details of major chateaux, restaurants and hotels in the region: www.medoc-bordeaux.com/JulienPhotos/autres/DVMedoc.pdf
* Medoc Tourist Office, Bordeaux: www.medoc-bordeaux.com
* Bordeaux Tourist Office: www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

Author: Coralie Modschiedler

07 September 2009

Singapore by night

With the return of the night time Formula 1 Grand Prix to Singapore this month, and an increasing array of high-end restaurants, gleaming shopping malls and electric night spots making it one of the hottest destinations in Asia, here is our inside guide on where to best appreciate the beautiful island after dark.

True, you can be fined for jaywalking, dropping gum or forgetting to flush the toilet, but if you can respect certain rules, you'll find that modern-day Singapore is all about fun, especially after dark.

In 2008, the country hosted the first night-time Formula One race, and a continual stream of the world's top music acts, plus a multitude of hip new bars, casinos, theme parks, art galleries, concert halls and stunning restaurants make night time in Singapore a thoroughly exciting place to be.

Singapore River

Singapore's thriving nightlife scene is concentrated along the Singapore River; the lively bars at Boat Quay are a magnet for westerners.

Also worth checking out are the pubs and restaurants along Circular Road, which runs parallel to the river. The street is lined with Singapore's distinctive shophouses: colonial-era buildings with a 1.5m (5ft) covered walkway in front that contain both shops and residential areas.

Around the bend of the river the pedestrianised zone Clarke Quay comprises four streets of historic warehouses now converted into bars, nightclubs and restaurants. All types of cuisine can be found here, from Indian fusion to Mexican tapas, alongside a number of inventive bars. Check out Clinic, where the furniture is recycled from a hospital, and Lunar bar, which is decked out in modern Chinese pop art.

Taste the high life

Chinatown © Jon Yeomans

The high-rise downtown area next to the Singapore River is home to numerous stunning hotels, the most famous being Raffles; sipping Singapore Slings (gin, cherry brandy and Benedictine, if you feel like whipping up a DIY version) in the Long Bar at Raffles is an obligatory pilgrimage for any tourist.

Alternatively, check out the bar of cavernous Mandarin Oriental, which boasts stunning views of Marina Bay, or take in the elegant surroundings of the Swissotel Merchant Court, located in the main entertainment district.

Melting pot

Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. To see another side of the city, pay a visit to the bars and restaurants of Chinatown, a short walk from the centre, or enjoy the rough and tumble of Little India and Kampong Glam, the Malay district.

With these three cultures blending into one nation, it's no surprise that some of the world's best Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and fusion food is found here, and it's definitely worth sampling the fare in the bustling food courts or ‘hawker centres', where even fast meals can be healthy, tasty and kind on the wallet.

Singapore's most famous dish is chilli crab, invented in the 1950s: succulent crab cooked in spicy gravy to be eaten with your fingers. Another popular meal is Malaysian satay: chunks of marinated chicken or pork cooked over a charcoal fire and served in peanut sauce. Wash it down with a bottle of the ubiquitous local brew, Tiger Beer.

Shopping and spinning

Singapore Flyer © Jon Yeomans

If you fancy a break from filling your stomach, you can indulge in Singapore's other great pastime: shopping. No stay would be complete without a trip to Orchard Road, a 7 km (4.5-mile) boulevard of pristine shopping malls. Many stores are open until 2200, while the eclectic Mustafa Centre in Little India serves customers around the clock.

Relax after a tiring evening's shop by hopping on Singapore's newest attraction the Singapore Flyer - a giant wheel which, at 165m (541ft) high, is taller than the London Eye. The flyer is open until 2230 and offers fantastic views of the marina and downtown area.

Walk on the wild side

One of Singapore's finest attractions - day or night - is the Night Safari. This nature reserve is home to all manner of animals from lions and tigers to elephants and rhino.

The entrance - all wooden gates and burning torches - puts you in mind of Jurassic Park, and, once inside, visitors can walk or ride the tram around enclosures carved out of the island's natural rainforest watching creatures going about their business under simulated moonlight, completely unaware that they are being observed.

Singapore Grand Prix

Singapore held the first night time Formula One Grand Prix in September 2008, with 5kms (3.1 miles) of smooth course snaking around Marina Bay under specially designed lights. The thrilling event - which saw Fernando Alonso storm up the field from 15th place to claim victory - returns to Singapore on 27 September 2009, and the terrific atmosphere and enthusiasm of the locals make it one of the best times to visit.
Author: Jon Yeomans

21 September 2009

Bike-friendly cities

Whether being kind to your health, your bank balance or the environment, you can't beat a bike to get around town. In many European cities cycling is a both easy and fun way to take in the sights, and, with the 21st century's traffic clogged roads, hopping on a bike is the quickest way to get from A to B.

Amsterdam

In the Dutch capital, cycling is by far the most popular way to travel. Often referred to as ‘bicycle capital of the world', nearly half of all journeys in Amsterdam are made on two wheels; almost every one of the city's 750,000 residents owns a cycle, including the Dutch Royal Family. Parking up is an easy task, with plenty of places on hand to chain up your bike, including a 10,000-place bike park at the central railway station. If you'd rather not cycle solo, why not hire a group bicycle? This innovative bike carries a guide and five passengers, and can be hired for specific tours or even a pub-crawl. But pedal power in Amsterdam isn't just limited to the roads: a pedal boat is a fun and watery way of seeing the city, enjoyed by around 130,000 tourists every year.

* Bike hire: www.bikes.nl or www.macbike.nl
* Group bicycle: www.amsterdamactief.nl

Salzburg

Austria's bicycle-friendly city features over 100km (62 miles) of cycle paths. Cycling is an easy way to explore this beautiful destination, and travelling by bicycle is certainly cheaper than using public transport. Underpasses for cyclists can be found on both sides of the Salzach river, meaning no traversing busy bridges and main roads. There are numerous guided cycling tours, where qualified guides lead you along car-free paths, and Sound of Music fans will enjoy the Fraulein Maria's Bicycle Tour which visits numerous locations from the famous film. (This avoids busy roads and so is also suitable for children.) Serious cyclists may prefer the 450km (280-mile) stretch of the Mozart Bike Path that winds through pretty countryside around the city.

* Bike hire: www.topbike.at
* Fraulein Maria's Bicycle Tour: www.mariasbicycletours.com

Barcelona

Bikes for rent in Barcelona © creative Commons/agahran

Cyclists can take advantage of over 100 kilometres (62 miles) of cycle lanes and paths in this eco-aware Spanish city. Less experienced cyclists are advised to follow one of the main bike lanes, but be prepared for traffic jams. Those less familiar with Barcelona can join an English-speaking guided cycling tour, lasting three or four hours. Or, for a romantic twist, try a sunset cycling tour. Local residents have the subsidised "bicing" service: a bike rental system which forms part of the city's public transport network. Users pay a fee to receive a card which they then use to unblock a cycle in any of the 100 city stations. They can cycle anywhere in the urban city area and drop it off at any station when they're finished.

* Bike hire: www.bikerentalbarcelona.com
* Guided bicycle tours: www.fattirebiketoursbarcelona.com

Copenhagen

Cyclistsin Copenhagen © Creative Commons/OneFatMan

City bikes are popular with visitors and Copenhageners alike as an alternative to petrol-fuelled transport. Find one of the 110 bike racks in the city centre, pop a DKK 20 coin in the slot and pedal off Copenhagen-style; return the cycle to any rack and get your DKK 20 coin back. Ultra-efficient Denmark has traffic lights especially for its cyclists, especially found at heavily trafficked crossroads. The city is also a great base from which to explore the rest of the country using a network of 12 national cycle trails. Raise your right hand to indicate to other cyclists you are about to stop, and remember that bus passengers have right of way at bus stops, so wait for the bus doors to close before continuing.

* Bike hire: www.bycyklen.dk
* Info on cycle routes: www.trafikken.dk

Berlin

Pedal power is big business in this city of flat roads and green spaces. Berlin features an extensive network of paths reserved for cyclists, and has plenty of spaces for bicycle parking. The city has pledged that bikes will comprise 15% of traffic by 2010, and it already has 80km (50 miles) of bike lanes running along main streets, particularly in the leafy neighbourhoods of former West Berlin. Cyclists are allowed to take bicycles on the U- and S-Bahn for a small extra charge. Just check which train compartment has the bicycle sign.

* Bike hire: www.berlinonbike.de
* Sightseeing cycle tours: www.berlinonbike.de or www.fattirebiketours.com/berlin

Author: Gilly Pickup

01 September 2009

Christmas in Vienna

From imperial palaces to world famous cafes, Vienna has plenty to keep visitors entertained all year round. But it is during the festive season that the Austrian capital really comes into its own.

Christmas Markets

In December the Christmas markets (Christkindlmarkt), a tradition that goes back to the early 17th century, become the focus of all activity in Vienna. The biggest of them all takes place in front of the magnificent Rathaus (City Hall) (website: www.christkindlmarkt.at), which forms a majestic backdrop to what has to be one of the prettiest Christmas markets in Europe.

Over 140 stalls, selling such perennial favourites as candyfloss, roasted chestnuts, wursts (sausages), pickles jars and the ubiquitous gingerbreads, as well as baubles, candles and all manner of wooden and soft toys, attract a whopping 3 million visitors every year. The smell of spices and glühwein (mulled wine) permeates the air, and the multicoloured lights hanging in the trees above the square really do turn the whole area into a magical Christmas wonderland.

Another good place for visitors and locals to mingle around upturned barrels and sip the festive brew is Spittelberg, a maze of narrow cobbled streets between Burggasse and Siebensterngasse, and one of Vienna's most funky and arty neighbourhoods.
Spittelberg market is smaller and less touristy but just as atmospheric as the one at the Rathaus, with a more ethnic flavour. Also worth checking out is the market outside the imposing Karlskirche, as well as the one in the courtyard of Schloss Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace).

Imperial Vienna

Vienna was of course famous for being the home of the Hapsburg dynasty, the ruling House of Austria, and more particularly that of Elisabeth Amalia Eugenia, better known as Empress Sisi (incidentally born on Christmas Eve 1837), and immortalised on the silver screen by a young Romy Schneider.

The city has retained much of its imperial grandeur, from the imposing complex of the Hofburg (website: www.hofburg-wien.at), the emperor's winter residence, to a number of smaller private palaces, most of which will be open to visitors over the festive season. So step back in time... Maybe even treat yourself to a ride in a wonderfully old-fashioned horse-drawn caleche?

Galleries Galore

Or indulge in a visual feast in one of Vienna's many fascinating museums and art galleries. There are some fabulous paintings by Klimt and Schiele (two of Austria's most famous artists) in the permanent collection of both the Belvedere (home of the famous Kiss) (website: www.belvedere.at) and the Leopold Museum (in the new MuseumQuartier district) (website: www.leopoldmuseum.org), while the Albertina (website: www.albertina.at), another of the city's top galleries, currently features an exhibition of Picasso's late works, with almost 200 pieces including paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures (on until 7 January 2007).

A Night at the Opera

As befits a city that was once home to both Mozart and Strauss, and still attracts the biggest talents in the music world, Vienna boasts a plethora of music venues, from big theatres to smaller concert halls. The Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera) (website: www.wiener-staatsoper.at) is the grandest of them all, and a must see for all opera lovers.

This season it is possible to catch a performance of Der Rosenkavalier or Arabella (both by Richard Strauss), or visitors with youngsters in tow can opt for Mozart's Bastien und Bastienne, a children's special. Round the corner the Vienna Boys Choir (website: www.wsk.at) will be celebrating mass in the intimate setting of the Hofburgkapelle (24 and 25 December at 0900, booking essential). Glam up for the occasion, as the Viennese love dressing up!

Having a Ball

The New Year's celebrations kick off in true regal style at the Hofburg Palace with the Imperial Ball (Kaiserball) (website: www.hofburg.com/e/va/index.php), the first of the season, which lasts until mid February. This is one of the main events on the social calendar, where the crème de la crème of Viennese society, after a sumptuous gala dinner, take to the dancefloor and whirl and waltz the night away. A very original, but effective, way to burn off excess calories.

Happy New Year!

On New Year's Eve every year Vienna's city centre is transformed into one big street party, with a dozen stages providing free entertainment from early in the afternoon until the small hours. There will be something for all tastes, from (yet more) waltzes and operetta to rock music and folk, culminating in the Pummerin (Austria's biggest bell) in St Stephen's Cathedral ringing in the new year, followed by the Blue Danube Waltz.

Another Viennese tradition, the popular hangover breakfast on the Rathausplatz, is accompanied by live transmission of the New Year's Day Concert given by the Vienna Philharmonic on a giant screen outside City Hall. So wrap up warm, and celebrate the arrival of 2007 in style.

Photo credits:
City Hall market © www.christkindlmarkt.at
Spittelberg © Marie Peyre
Hofburg © Marie Peyre
Staatsoper © Wien-Tourismus
Kaiserball © Wien-Tourismus Heinz Angermayr

Author: Marie Peyre

Cambodia: Beyond the temples of Angkor

As Cambodia emerges as a mainstream tourist destination, it is becoming increasingly possible to explore the country in comfort, away from the modern developments of Siem Reap.

As home to the truly incredible Angkor Wat, it is not really surprising that many tourists overlook the rest of Cambodia. Backpackers have been exploring Cambodia beyond the Temples of Angkor for some time now and have paved the way (quite literally) for those who prefer an air-con bus to the back of a jarring lorry. It is now possible to encounter the delights and lessons of this beautiful, intriguing country without the hassle and grime.

Phnom Penh

The bloody tale of Cambodia's recent history is laid bare with bleak, profound clarity in the Tuol Sleng Museum. Between 1975 and 1979 the Khmer Rouge massacred nearly 2 million people (over 20% of the population) in the name of extreme Maoist agrarianism. The museum began life as an ordinary high school but was turned into Security Prison 21 in 1975. Photographs of the tortured bodies of prisoners are displayed in the same blood-stained rooms the liberating Vietnamese army found them in. Weapons and portrait photographs of the thousands of victims of this brutal revolution are also on show.

About 15km (9 miles) away are the Killing Fields, the site of the prison's extermination camp. The remains of almost 9,000 people have been exhumed from mass graves here and human bones litter the ground. Over 8,000 skulls are displayed in the Memorial Stupa. A visit to these sites is a harrowing, sobering experience, but one that is essential to begin to comprehend modern Cambodia.

The south coast

The untouched beaches and forested mountains of Kampot province provide welcome relief from the city's traumas. Bokor Hill Station in Bokor National Park is a relic of the French colonial era; the abandoned buildings include a hotel, casino and church. On clear days the view stretches across the forest to the coast. On cloudy days, mist swirls eerily around the station. Nearby, the two-tiered Popokvil Falls are a beautiful place for a dip.

For a coastal break, avoid the relatively developed Sihanoukville and head to Kep for spectacular sunsets, a rich history and some of the best seafood in South-East Asia. Kep, originally an elite French resort, did not fare so well during the Khmer Rouge's reign. The ruins of French houses are still scattered along the shoreline and may be explored at leisure. While Cambodians have been holidaying here for years, foreign tourists are only just beginning to catch on, and a few up-market hotels have opened along Kep's unspoiled beaches. For pure luxury try Knai Bang Chatt (website: www.knaibangchatt.com) or for something a little more affordable check out The Beach House (website: www.thebeachhousekep.com).

The Mekong river

The unusual residents of the sleepy riverside town of Kratie are the main attraction to the north of Phnom Penh. Kratie is the best place in Cambodia to see endangered freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins. Thousands used to swim in the Mekong but irresponsible fishing and pollution have driven the population down to about 100. Happily, 10 young dolphins were discovered in October and the chances of seeing them are pretty high.

It is worth spending a day or two in laid-back Kratie itself to soak up the faded colonial elegance and wander along the riverfront sampling local specialities from stalls in the evening. Depending on how squeamish you are, it might be wise to steer clear of one of the regional specialities, deep fried spider!

The northeast

To really get off the beaten track, go trekking in remote Ratanakiri. Expect lush jungle, waterfalls and remote ethnic minority villages. The Yaklom Hill Lodge (website: www.yaklom.com) is one of the few hotels in the area. Nearby, the crystal clear waters of Boeng Yeak Lom volcanic lake are superb for swimming. The lodge offers guided half-day, day and overnight treks into the surrounding jungle and communities.

Virachay National Park (website: www.bpamp.org.kh), Cambodia's largest protected area, boasts elephant, tiger, sun and black bears and freshwater crocodile. There are even rumours of isolated rhinoceroses. Park rangers can arrange hikes ranging from two days to the seven-day Extended Wilderness Trek, which reaches spectacular Phnom Veal Thom, a virtually inaccessible montane grassland.

Central Cambodia

And if the call of the mighty Angkor Wat is still too strong be sure to stop off at the floating Vietnamese village of Kompong Luong en route. The village, complete with restaurants, schools, police stations, temples and karaoke bars for its 10,000 inhabitants, drifts on the southern edge of Tonlé Sap Lake; its exact location depends on the season and currents. It is a great place to people-watch with a beer in a floating bar.

Author: Emma Field

01 November 2006

Stockholm outdoors

Stockholm is the city to go for alfresco life in the summer. We look at the outdoor options on offer in the sunny Swedish capital.

Stockholm is an attractive city at any time of the year - metropolitan, spacious, idyllic. Still, it is in the summer that the Swedish capital comes into its own, when the streets, squares and parks fill up with people enjoying the vibrant sun and the archipelago teems with sailboats and island-hoppers making the most of the city's remarkable maritime environment. In Stockholm, summer is a time to be outdoors.

From sky to sea

The most spectacular way of sightseeing in the Swedish capital is to go on a hot air balloon flight (website: www.farochflyg.se). Stockholm in summer has superb ballooning conditions, and sometimes the sky above the city and the archipelago is dotted with more than a dozen balloons.

More common, however, is sightseeing by boat. A wide range of sightseeing boat trips, both in the archipelago and in the city's waterways, is available from Sightseeing in Stockholm (website: www.stockholmsightseeing.se). The most comprehensive lasts for over two hours, passes under 15 bridges and through two locks and includes both the sea and Lake Mälaren in the west of the city.

An alternative is obviously to hire a boat - whether a rowing boat (website: www.bigboatrowing.com), a sailing boat (website: www.hissasegel.se), a motor boat (website: www.skanstullmarin.se) or a larger yacht (website: www.classicyachtcharter.com).

Island hopping

Stockholm's archipelago is one of the world's most spectacular, with 24,000 islands, islets and rocks. Many of the islands can be reached from central Stockholm by ferry (website: www.waxholmsbolaget.se), and several have picturesque inns and restaurants. Most restaurants specialise in seafood dishes, particularly Baltic herring. Sandhamn (website: http://sandhamn.org) is a charming island, widely known for its natural beauty, cultural heritage, restaurants and regattas. It is also great for swimming and has several child-friendly sandy beaches.

Of the archipelago camping sites, Waxholm Strand & Camping (website: www.vaxholmscamping.com) on the island Vaxön is very good and offers camping spaces as well as cabins and tent cabins, boat and bicycle hire and a restaurant and café. Not that you need to go out to sea to enjoy the Stockholm waters. There are plenty of places in the city where you can go canoeing, do a bit of fishing or go swimming. For the latter, try Långholmen, a small island with a sandy beach. Boats, kayaks and canoes as well as bikes and inline skates can be hired from Djurgårdsbrons Sjöcafé (website: http://info.aos.se:80/E/V/STOSE/0000/35/50/1.html).

Seeing the sights

Djurgården itself is a lovely island known for its lush greenery, its museums and the Gröna Lund (website: www.gronalund.com) amusement park, which has eight restaurants and 25 rides and other attractions, including frequent open-air concerts. It's a great place for kids, as is the popular open-air museum Skansen (website: www.skansen.se) in the north-western corner of Djurgården. It contains some 160 historic wooden houses and even whole farms from Sweden's rural past, and there are plenty of animals both on the farms and in the museum's zoo and aquarium.

Another Djurgården attraction is Rosendals Trädgård (Rosendal's Garden) (website: www.rosendalstradgard.se), a biodynamic garden where visitors can pick their own flowers and buy fresh produce from the greenhouses.

Other pleasant Stockholm green spaces include the parkland at Drottningholm Palace (website: www.royalcourt.se), with its impressive baroque and English gardens, and Kungsträdgården (website: www.kungstradgarden.nu) on Norrmalm, where there are plenty of free outdoor events in the summer. Millesgården (website: www.millesgarden.se) on the island of Lidingö is also worth checking out, a garden museum devoted to Sweden's best known sculptor of the 20th century, Carl Milles (1875-1955).

An important part of summer park life in Stockholm are the many free performances by Parkteatern (the Park Theatre) (website: www.stadsteatern.stockholm.se) in the city's parks. This summer there will be comedy, drama, ballet, musicals, poetry recitals and dance performances at more than 30 park venues throughout the city.

City life

If you don't fancy either sea or green spaces, there are always the streets and squares to check out. The cobbled medieval streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town) are full of charm, and there are pavement cafes and restaurants everywhere (around 800 throughout the city). Alfresco dining really is a must in summer. Several restaurants can be found at Nytorget on Södermalm, a square with a bohemian vibe and lawns where you can sit down for a coffee.

Medborgarplatsen, a lively entertainment square to the west of Götgatan on Södermalm, has several outdoor places too. Further north, on Norrmalm, there are pleasant outdoor dining options in the area around Rörstrandsgatan. Of the city's many outdoor establishments, fashionable Sturehof (website: www.sturehof.com) on Stureplan is an excellent place for a meal alfresco. The same goes for Tehuset (Tea House), which is located under the elm trees in Kungsträdgården.

One of Stockholm's most idyllic cafes, Lasse i Parken (website: www.lasseiparken.se), is located in a little red 18th-century house with a garden in Pålsundsparken. When it comes to outside dining with a view, however, it is hard to beat vegetarian restaurant Hermans at Fjällgatan (website: www.hermans.gastrogate.com) on Södermalm, with its gorgeous aspect of the sea approach to Stockholm.

Author: Paul Andersen

South African festivals

Festival fun can be found at a number of annual events around South Africa, which celebrate anything from the arts and live music, to cherries, whales, olives and wine.

January

Watch the lively New Year's Day Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (website: www.capetownminstrels.co.za) with its floats and minstrel bands in brightly coloured costumes, straw boaters and open umbrellas.

February

Enjoy cutting-edge performances at Johannesburg's FNB Dance Umbrella (website: www.at.artslink.co.za/~arts), a showcase of contemporary and often community-based choreographers and dance troupes at venues around Newtown.

March

Sample jams, chutneys and other homemade goodies made from prickly pears at the Prickly Pear Festival (website: www.nmbt.co.za) near Port Elizabeth, as well as traditional South African cuisine like potjiekos (stews cooked in cast iron three-legged pots) and braais (barbecues). At the Cape Town Jazz Festival (website: www.capetownjazzfest.com) catch local and international jazz groups performing over 10 days on five stages to huge crowds at the Cape Town International Convention Centre. Eat plenty of delicious seafood in Lambert's Bay on the west coast during the Kreeffees (Crayfish) Festival (website: http://kreeffees.com), where bands play in the beer tents. An alternative to arts festivals in English, the ABSA Karoo Nasionale Kunstefees (website: www.absakknk.co.za) showcases Afrikaans-language arts in Oudtshoorn in the Western Cape. Revel in the laid-back European-style camping festival atmosphere at Splashy Fen (website: www.splashyfen.co.za), where local rock acts perform on a farm near Underberg in KwaZulu Natal's southern Drakensberg Mountains.

April

Get informed at SciFest Africa (website: www.scifest.org.za), the National Festival of Science, Engineering and Technology held in Grahamstown. The lectures, films and interactive science exhibits now attract some 40,000 visitors, many of them school children. Experience the flavours of Holland at the Tulbagh Goes Dutch Festival (website: www.tulbaghtourism.org.za) along historical Church Street in this pretty Western Cape town, with Dutch food, market stalls, and a tulip display. Also in the Western Cape, the Prince Albert Town and Olive Festival (website: www.patourism.co.za) offers wine and olive tasting, live music, an art exhibition, and a unique olive pip spitting competition.

May

Party in pink at Knysna's Pink Loerie Mardi Gras (website: www.pinkloerie.com), a four-day non-stop festival celebrating gay pride that attracts revellers from Cape Town. There's cabaret, fashion shows and lots and lots of themed parties.

June

South Africa's version of Scotland's Edinburgh Festival, the 10-day National Arts Festival (website: www.nafest.co.za) is held in the university town of Grahamstown in the Eastern Cape. It's the largest festival in the country attracting tens of thousands of visitors, and showcases every genre of the arts in both mainstream and fringe performances.

July

Slurp and shuck oysters at the Knysna Oyster Festival (website: www.oysterfestival.co.za) when there's oyster tasting, oyster-eating competitions, plus live entertainment, bike races and a marathon. Rub shoulders with farmers at the Bushveld Festival (website: www.bushveldfestival.co.za), a large agricultural show in the Waterberg region in Limpopo Province. There are cattle and dog shows, a game auction, food and beer tents and a 4x4 driving challenge. Sip port at the Calitzdorp Port Festival (website: www.calitzdorp.co.za) in the Western Cape, which also hosts South Africa's annual boules championships.

August

Rock to local bands at the Oppikoppi Bushveld Festival (website: www.oppikoppi.co.za) near Northam in the Northwest Province, another open-air rock and camping festival that attracts up to 60 live acts on several stages. Get your feet tapping at the Joy of Jazz (website: www.joyofjazz.co.za) to the best of South African and international jazz artists, which also attracts American big bands at various venues around Newtown in Johannesburg.

September

Sip wine and picnic underneath shady trees on the banks of the Maglies River at the Cellar Rats Wine Festival (website: www.cellarrats.co.za) in the pretty Magaliesberg countryside northeast of Johannesburg. Take in highbrow dance, poetry, visual and performance arts at the month-long Arts Alive (website: www.artsalive.co.za) festival at various venues around Johannesburg. Spot Southern Right whales in Walker Bay from the cliff tops during the Hermanus Whale Festival (website: www.whalefestival.co.za), which has markets, food stalls, sporting events and everything you need to know about whales.

October

Enjoy a five-day jol (Afrikaans for ‘good time') at the Aardklop Arts Festival (website: www.aardklop.co.za) in Potchefstroom in the Free State, which has live entertainment from circus performances to rock and pop, food stalls and a craft market. Macufe (website: www.macufe.co.za) is another large 10-day arts festival held in Bloemfontein in the Free State featuring anything from jazz and hip hop to fine art and theatre.

November

See how far you can spit a cherry pip in competitions at the Ficksburg Cherry Festival (website: www.cherryfestival.co.za) in the Eastern Cape, which also offers live bands and children's entertainment including the crowning of Miss Cherry Blossom and Mr Cherry Pip. Camp out at South Africa's largest youth-orientated open-air rock festival, Woodstock (website: www.woodstock.co.za) near Harrismith in the Free State, for performances of hard rock and additional entertainment like fire breathers, drumming circles and a skateboard park.

December

Franschhoek is the self-proclaimed gastronomic capital of South Africa, so quaff a glass of bubbly at the Cap Classique and Champagne Festival (website: www.franschhoek.org.za) and nibble on gourmet snacks prepared by the town's famous restaurants. Party hard at Cape Town's gay-dominated Mother City Queer Project (website: www.mcqp.co.za), which draws thousands to see the fashion shows, beauty pageants, and spectacularly outrageous costumes at the final mother of all parties.

Author: Lizzie Williams

01 January 2008

Palermo

Sicily's largest city and a cultural rival to Rome or Florence, Palermo offers several different types of holiday in one.

An important city for centuries, Palermo caught the attention of the Arabs, Normans and others who invaded and left their mark. The city's architecture reflects its jumbled history - there are skylines that push together Arab domes with Norman spires, with baroque cathedrals and 19th-century theatres at the other end of the next side street.

It may appear that the city hasn't been preserved very well - the worn or bordering-on-decrepit-looking buildings that you'll inevitably come across will put some visitors off. See behind this and witness the gradual renovations and refurbishments, and you're left with a historically important, actually rather elegant city.

Palermo's districts

Divided up into quarters, Palermo's attractions can be separated into four districts - El Capo, La Kalsa, La Vucciria and Albergheria.

In El Capo, the highlight is undoubtedly the cathedral. A seemingly ongoing structure that represents several different eras and styles at once, it is difficult to see what the Arabs left and what the Normans finished. Nothing reflects the city's diversity better than the cathedral, a building that could actually be three.

La Città del Ottocento (city of the 1800s) isn't far - don't miss the Teatro Massimo (website: www.teatromassimo.it), Teatro Politeama Garibaldi and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna (website: www.galleriadartemodernapalermo.it).

Once notorious for shady characters, La Kalsa has now opened up to visitors, and though many of the sights are crumbling, they are still worth casting a glance at for the sake of visible former glory. The Galleria Regionale is here, a Gothic building home to a collection of medieval art. Anyone interested in Sicilian puppetry should not miss the Museo delle Marionette (website: www.museomarionettepalermo.it). Tucked away close to the marina, Giardino Garibaldi offers a little shade from the city sun - and there's also an interesting fig tree with exposed roots to see.

Fighting the Mafia

One of Palermo's biggest initiatives is to rid the city of its Mafia association, a problem that costs the businesses around £130 million a year in extorted local protection money or pizzo. Housed in an art nouveau building and serving local specialities such as pane con la milza (veal spleen sandwiches), Antica Focacceria San Francesco (website: www.afsf.it) is one of La Kalsa's best attractions. A city institution, it's also pizzo-free, making it the most popular bakery in town. The Basilica di San Francesco d'Assisi, a 13th-century church and former Franciscan monastery, shares the same piazza.

Shopping and more sights

The best thing in La Vucciria is its famed street market, a tangled network of narrow side streets crowded with densely stocked stalls selling everything from freshly dried tomatoes to mobile phone covers. The nearby Basilica di San Domenico, a white and gold baroque church, is imposingly grand thanks to its structure and the towering palm trees outside. This is where many famous citizens are buried, including former prime minister Francesco Crispi. An important collection can be seen in the Museo Archeologico Regionale, in an equally important building - a 17th-century monastery with a courtyard.

Albergheria sprawls out to the east from Quattro Canti (a decorated intersection in the middle of the historic centre), containing a wide selection of chiesas (churches) in different styles. First up is San Cataldo Church, unfinished due to the murder of its creator in 1160 but impressive all the same - the bright red domes form an unusual rooftop. San Giovanni degli Eremiti, a church with a matching rounded rooftop and peaceful garden, is currently undergoing restoration and hard hats are required for a visit - the building is 800 years old.

If you've had your fill of Arab-Norman churches, some baroque excess awaits at Chiesa del Gesù and San Giuseppe dei Teatini. Or, if you want a building that combines all three, see La Martorana Church off Piazza Pretoria - a medieval church with bell tower and some slightly out-of-place ornate amendments from a few centuries later. The Palazzo dei Normanni, for many the city's highlight, is the seat of the Sicilian regional government and once the seat of Roger II. A castle that began as a Roman fort, it was developed by the Arabs in the ninth century and the Normans in the 12th. Its majestic Palatine chapel is covered in Byzantine mosaics.

Escaping the city

The city can be hot and hectic so visitors should not forget the beautiful island countryside that surrounds Palermo. Mondello's turquoise waters are just a short bus ride away. This is where Palermitans head for a beach fix and an art nouveau pier sits on the shore. An hour away by train, Cefalù (website: www.cefalu.it) is a rival to the east coast's Taormina. A huge cathedral and rock face sit above the town, with a popular beach below.

Closer to the city is the cathedral in Monreale, at the top of a steep hill. More Byzantine mosaics await as do extensive views over the city, hills and sea.

If you prefer slightly darker, indoor-based attractions, and don't mind encountering mummies, head out to the Capuchin Catatombs, a collection of 8,000 bodies embalmed by Capuchin friars between the 17th and 19th centuries. Perhaps too sinister and frightening for some, it attracts many visitors all the same.

Author: Caroline Lewis

Indonesian island hopping

Boasting a string of more than 13,000 sun-soaked isles stretching from Malaysia to Australia, Indonesia is an island hopper's paradise.

From the popular tourist hotspots of Bali and Lombok to the white sandy beaches of the tranquil Gili Isles, Indonesia's archipelago is bursting with culture, dramatically rugged coastlines and bustling nightlife.

With a variety of boat transfers and ferry services available, an island hopping adventure is a fantastic way of experiencing Indonesia's intriguing diversity.

Bali

Bali is an island of ever-changing facades. Whilst Kuta has become renowned for its surf culture and numerous bars, the inland villages give way to lush rice terraces and breathtaking temples.

The mountain village of Ubud is the best place to experience traditional Balinese culture. As the island's cultural heartland, the village abounds with magnificent temples, local art galleries, museums and performance venues. Ubud's most popular attraction is the Monkey Forest Sanctuary (website: www.monkeyforestubud.com), where visitors can get up close and personal with the resident, and extremely mischievous, macaques.

The laid-back beach resort of Lovina, in the north of the island, is a great place to escape the tourist throngs of the south. Boats can be chartered to the surrounding islands from the centre of Kalibukbuk, as well as early morning dolphin-watching trips, which offer a jaw-dropping view of Bali as the sun rises above the island's looming volcanic peaks.

Tanah Lot is Bali's most famed temple, and sits aloft a rocky offshore outcrop, just west of Denpasar. Set in a dramatic landscape of glistening black sand and lashing waves, the multi-tiered shrine is well worth a visit and is especially magnificent at sunset.

Padang Bai is Bali's main port for Lombok as well as boat charters to the Gili Islands and Komodo. You can buy ferry tickets from the port itself, whilst all-inclusive trips to the Gili Islands (including ferry, minibus transfer and local island crossing) are available from one of the many local tour companies.

Lombok

Although often compared to the neighbouring island of Bali, Lombok differs dramatically in culture, offering a much slower pace of life and remaining relatively unaffected by the tourist trade - earning it a reputation as a more adventurous destination.

North Lombok is dominated by the staggering volcanic mass of Gunung Rinjani, which has created an arresting black sandy coastline. As well as climbing up the mountainous terrain, visitors can cool off in one of the many waterfalls or take in some local village culture.

Nature lovers will appreciate the picturesque upland Sembalun valley, which is not only surrounded by impressive mountain peaks, but is also a far cry from the usual tourist trail. For the more active visitor, the big swell along Lombok's south-coast beaches attracts a mass of surfers to its many hidden coves.

Boats travel frequently from Bali such as Bounty Cruise (website: www.balibountycruises.com) and Bluewater Safaris (website: www.bwsbali.com), which also offers air-conditioned trips to the Gili Islands. A slower and cheaper alternative is the aptly named Slow Ferry from Padang Bai, which takes around five hours. In summer months aim for the air-conditioned lounges as the trip can be unbearably hot.

Gili Islands

The little known Gili Islands are a collection of three unspoilt havens, sitting off the north west coast of Lombok. Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air are all strikingly beautiful with vast swathes of pure white sand and evian-clear waters that boast stunning coral reefs.

Although the nightlife is fairly low-key on all three islands, there is a great choice of accommodation from traditional wooden lodges to more luxurious villas, as well as a good selection of bars and restaurants. With a population of 700, Gili Trawangan is the largest and most lively island, with nightly beach parties, bars, restaurants and numerous dive centres.

One main draw of the Gilis is the fabulous snorkelling and diving opportunities. As well as snorkelling equipment for hire, there are a number of Padi certified dive centres on Gili Trawangan, which offer courses for beginners and more experienced divers. Not only is this a great opportunity to catch a glimpse of a sea turtle or reef shark, you can achieve your Padi certificate for a nominal cost in a stunning location.

You can reach all of the islands from Lombok's port of Bangsal, from where regular public boats leave between 0730 and 1630, as well as shuttle boats and private charters. There is also a twice-daily Perama shuttle boat from Senggigi, although the running of this does depend on the weather conditions.

Komodo

For the more adventurous traveller, various organised boat trips can be taken to the island of Komodo. Although the journey can take up to a day from either Lombok or the Gili Islands, once there visitors can marvel at the stunning wildlife and get the rare chance to see the feeding of the prehistoric-sized Komodo dragons.

Perama offers trips from Senggigi on Lombok and Coconut Cottages from Gili Air (website: www.coconuts-giliair.com). Lombok Sailing (website: www.lomboksailing.com) offers a variety of trips including Komodo and Flores. Most trips last around four days and three nights aboard traditional wooden charter boats.

Further information:

For further information visit the Ministry of Culture and Tourism at www.my-indonesia.info.

Author: Caroline Cullern

01 May 2008

Vancouver 2010: The essential Winter Olympics guide

Seven years may seem a long time to wait for the 2016 Olympics in samba-fuelled Rio. However, if you're more of a snow than a sun worshipper, the Winter Olympics are a mere four months away. Better still, the action takes place against the jaw-dropping beauty of Canada's third largest city, Vancouver.

Vancouver was rated the world's most liveable city in 2009 by The Economist. Nearby Whistler, where several events are planned, has just been ranked North America's number one ski resort by readers of Skiing magazine for the 13th year in a row.

With such impressive credentials, there's no doubt that western Canada offers an outstanding destination for athletes and visitors alike. Susie Henderson helps you to make the most of the 2010 Games.

When do the Games take place?

The Olympic Games will be held from 12-28 February, while the Paralympic Games will take place from 12-21 March.

Getting there

Air Canada and British Airways both offer direct flights from London Heathrow. Canadian Affair operates charter flights from Gatwick, Manchester and Glasgow. A cheaper option is taking an indirect flight via the USA. BA also has daily flights to Seattle, a three-hour drive from Vancouver.

Where to stay

Vancouver has seen a handful of glitzy hotels springing up in the past couple of years, including the impressive Shangri-La, part of the city's tallest skyscraper, and the Fairmont Pacific Rim, which opens in January.

How do I buy tickets?

In the UK, tickets are available for the Olympics from Sportsworld and for the Paralympics from Travel Places. Both can also organise flights and accommodation.

Any gold prospects?

The halcyon days of Torvill and Dean's gold-medal-winning Bolero performance may be a distant memory, but don't rule the Brits out.

Scotland's victory over Canada in the 2009 World Championships suggests the men's curling team should put in a strong performance. Watch out for Zoe Gillings, who's currently ranked fifth in the world in snowboard cross. Nicola Minichiello and Gillian Cooke won gold at the 2009 Bobsleigh World Championships, while British women have excelled in recent bob skeleton competitions.

What's going on where?

Vancouver (and nearby Richmond and Cypress Mountain) will host the opening and closing ceremonies, ice hockey, curling, figure skating, speed skating, snowboarding and freestyle skiing.

Whistler will host the alpine and cross-country skiing, biathlon, ski jumping, bobsleigh, skeleton and luge events.

Any other action?

Aside from sporting events, a Cultural Olympiad will showcase an enormous range of Canadian and international artists in a series of concerts, plays, performances and exhibitions from 22 January-21 March.

Even if you don't have tickets, you can experience the buzz of the Games at a collection of live sites. Vancouver will have two sites with large screens, live entertainment and special events; expect things to really kick off on hockey nights. In Richmond, south of the city, the O Zone will feature concerts and an outdoor ice rink.

In Whistler, giant TV screens strung up around the village will broadcast live coverage of events. Each afternoon, you'll be able to listen to bands or check out art exhibitions and interactive shows. Nightly entertainment will range from skiers jumping through rings of fire to a light show, which organisers claim will rival the Northern Lights. All these events are free.

You can also check out the national and sponsor pavilions. Holland House in Richmond's O Zone is said to be the one to party at, having gained legendary status at previous Olympics.

Getting around

TransLink operates an excellent public transit system in Vancouver, combining buses, SkyTrain (a light rail service) and SeaBus. If you hold a ticket to an event, you'll be able to access all public transport free of charge on that day.

The scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway between Vancouver and Whistler has been widened and improved. There will be no public parking in Whistler, so unless your accommodation comes with spaces, you'll need to board one of the frequent Olympic shuttle buses from Vancouver.

Within Whistler, local buses will connect the venues, neighbourhoods and ski lifts, while the 35km (22-mile) Valley Trail will be cleared for walkers and cross-country skiers.

Will I be able to visit Vancouver's attractions and ski in Whistler during the Games?

Yes, Vancouver attractions will be open to visitors and 90% of Whistler Blackcomb will remain open for skiing and snowboarding, so you never know - you might end up sharing a chairlift with an Olympian.

Can I experience the venues for myself?

While you may not be able to race Bode Miller on the downhill course or shred the halfpipe with Shaun White, you can follow in their tracks if you decide to visit outside the Olympics.

Test your mettle on the Dave Murray Downhill race course in Whistler or attempt a backside 180 in the halfpipe at Cypress Mountain.

Another highlight is Whistler Olympic Park, set in the spectacular Callaghan Valley, with 55km (34 miles) of cross-country ski trails. You can also try your hand at biathlon or ride the lift to the top of the ski jumps.

Further information:
Vancouver 2010
2010 Destination Planning
Tourism Vancouver
Tourism Whistler
Tourism BC

Author: Susie Henderson

12 October 2009