Istanbul 2010: Capital of Culture

With beautiful relics from Istanbul's Ottoman past standing proud alongside a flourishing contemporary art scene, this 2010 Capital of Culture is a striking showcase of ancient worlds and cutting-edge design.

While the dome of the Haghia Sophia, the grandeur of the Blue Mosque and the sights and smells of the Spice Bazaar remain at the heart of a first-time visit to Istanbul, it is the city's atmospheric Turkish cafés, cosmopolitan rooftop bars, opulent hotels, and colourful culinary heritage that make this a truly enthralling destination.

Art

Istanbul's reputation as a vibrant cultural melting pot is aptly celebrated by a diverse and thriving art scene. Formerly an Ottoman palace, the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum houses one of the world's most exemplary collections of rugs and carpets. Delve further into Turkey's past with the impressive collection of Ottoman calligraphy, stone pieces from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman eras on display at Sabancı University's Sakıp Sabancı Museum.

Leading Istanbul's contemporary art movement, the Istanbul Modern Art Gallery, in a large converted warehouse by the Bosphorus, features everything from permanent and temporary exhibitions to photography, a library, cinema and design store. Exhibitions in Istanbul's Capital of Culture year include photography exhibition Time Within Us (until May 2010), and From Traditional to Contemporary: Cultural Memory in Modern Turkish Art (until May 2010).

See Istanbul 2010 for more art projects across the city.

Festivals

Sitting on the cusp of Europe and Asia, Istanbul is fed by a diverse concoction of musical influences, and festivals here are a big deal. As a 2010 Capital of Culture, the city's upcoming music events are promising to be extra special.

Istanbul's most renowned festival is the International Istanbul Music Festival, which takes place across a variety of venues between 3-30 June. Performances range from traditional and modern dance displays to world-class orchestral concerts, and more intimate musical sessions.

For a heady dose of some big names in rock and pop, Rock ‘n' Coke explodes once more this July. Grab a cold beer and bop til you drop in this thriving open-air event. The 2010 line up is yet to be announced, but past acts have included American rapper Eminem and UK prog-rock group Muse.

See Istanbul 2010 for more live music across the city.

Drink

An arty crowd can be found at KeVe: a long-standing café tucked inside a pretty arcade filled with various plants and strings of little lights. Pull up a seat, sip a chilled drink, and feel very much part of the city's bohemian scene.

For a refreshing tea-stop in a quaint cobbled courtyard, try Haco Pulo. Or for something more potent, knock back some boza (a Turkish drink made from fermented grain), at Vefa Bozacisi; this long-standing café has been serving customers boza since the 19th century.

Sip a fresh fruit cocktail whilst taking some first-class views over the Bosphorus at Leb-i Derya Richmond - a sleek new venue catering for the larger wallet. If you're dressed to impress, continue the night at outdoor club Reina.

Food

Eat fresh Mediterranean dishes amid sleek modern style at Müzedechanga, in the grounds of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. Decked out by prominent Istanbul designers, Müzedechanga's wooden furnishings are given a contemporary edge with glass and steel touches. When temperatures soar, join the city's glitterati in some swanky alfresco dining at Nu Teras - the rooftop jewel of entertainment complex Ne Pera.

Enjoy a seasonal menu whole-heartedly championing Istanbul's Ottoman past, at Asitane. Sample such Ottoman delights as almond soup, and stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries, before taking a wander next door to the gorgeous Byzantine Chora church.

Find a no-frills Turkish feed at Ayasofya Kebap House in Sultanahmet which serves an assortment of solid meaty dishes. Then sate a sweet tooth with some sticky baklava washed down with a potent coffee at locals' favourite patisserie Çiğdem Pastanesi.

Shopping

Ditch the paint-stripping bottle of raki and belly dancer Zippo lighter, and take home a piece of quality Turkish handiwork.

Pick up authentic antique carpets and beautiful kelims (woven rugs) in little A La Turca, found in fashionable Çukurcuma. For assured quality and a wide range of Asian textile products, visit Cocoon; while the eye-catching modern designs at Dhoku in the Grand Bazaar bring the traditional kelim into the 21st century.

The Design Zone found near Istanbul's Grand Bazaar features contemporary Turkish designs a plenty. Many designers work recognisable motifs from the country's Ottoman past into modern pieces, including furniture and jewellery.

Hotels

Three of Istanbul's most luxurious hotels are steeped in history, while offering a stay fit-to-bursting with 21st century comforts. Set in a neo-gothic 19th century Imperial palace, the Çırağan Palace Kempinski boasts divine Palace Suites that offer a real Sultan experience.

Opening its doors in 2006, Les Ottomans is a refurbished 1790 waterfront mansion with a treasure trove of ornate designs and antique fittings, including a marble hamam (Turkish bath).

Spend the night in a renovated raki (anise-flavored aperitif) distillery, at Sumahan-On the Water on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. This tranquil retreat fuses simple contemporary design with traditional touches, and many rooms come complete with their own Turkish bath.

Insider tip: Join students in the shisha cafés opposite the university for a relaxing afternoon socialising and playing games.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis

Read more: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/feature/288/index/Istanbul-2010%3A-Capital-of-Culture.html#ixzz0jORGrSpo

Alternative Swiss ski holidays

When you've this many slopes it would be a shame to waste them. Catherine Quinn discovers why the Swiss have cornered the market on outlandish ways to travel downhill.

Ever wondered what it's like to plummet downhill on a wooden seat strapped to a single ski? I hadn't, until I was securely strapped in and pushed over the precipice. But then, neither had I given much thought to sledding on a blow-up surfboard, or carving the slopes on a bike equipped with snow-runners. All of these activities were part and parcel of the very unusual Swiss "cube" experience, which, I discovered was anything but square.

My first thought as I took off down the mountain was that with scenery this good I really should be paying attention. But as the mountain vistas tore by, my main focus was on staying aboard an inflatable ‘airboard' decidedly lacking in suspension. Of course I'm well aware that whilst the snow-capped hills look innocent enough from a distance, seeing them in close-up would be colourful for all the wrong reasons.

The idea behind my current mode of transport is a new concept in Switzerland. Whilst skiing is undoubtedly the most popular of winter entertainments in this part of the world a few restless locals have tired of the well-worn routes, the trusty equipment, and the tedious safety of it all and yearn for adrenalin-fuelled alternatives.

With this in mind, the Cube Hotel was born - a residence which supplies not only skiing facilities, but a range of innovative purpose-built vehicles which will plummet down a snowy slope in new and unpredictable ways. The dual advantage of this is that the hotel also offers the unusual extra of providing a similar range of vehicles for the summer months too. Meaning thrill-seeking guests can become regular visitors all year round.

In the winter the contraptions on offer include the ‘airboard' atop which I make my first giddy plunge, and a number of other euphemistically titled adrenalin generators such as the ‘ski fox' the ‘snow bike' and the ‘snow scooter'.

Whilst these vehicles may look intimidating lined up at the base of the ski lift, all have been ingeniously designed with Swiss panache to be easily (if not adeptly) tackled by a first-timer without lessons. No small part of the appeal is that these unique forms of transport are loaned on a rolling rotation basis, making them very good value - especially for Switzerland.

Rather than loan a single vehicle, visitors are encouraged to run the gamut of what's available, so the room rate will grant you access to as many as you can get up the hill and down again before sunset.

The hotel is designed around a basic chalet style of arrangement, including full ski pass and use of the extensive facilities. Downstairs a lively bar is the precursor to an underground nightclub for those looking to enjoy the après ski ambiance from, whilst a sauna, steam room, rock-climbing wall and a la carte restaurant cater to guests with more sedate intentions during their stay.

The exterior of straight glittering glass is something of a regional sight in its own right, and on my first morning, despite the chill, more than a few guests had assembled outside to enjoy breakfast against its mirrored grandeur.

As I was soon to find out, this impressive backdrop takes on a rather different hue when you're rushing by aboard a runaway lilo. But with several vehicles to get through before I could even think of having completed the Cube ‘experience' I arrived early to make my ascent.

Having chosen the gratifyingly remedial looking ‘airboard' for my first trip, I board to the uncertain realisation that my chin would be a bare few inches from the ground for the entire journey down.

The ski-bike is my next choice, and in retrospect would have made the best first vehicle. Despite comprising an odd looking saddle mounted on ski-style rollers it genuinely does handle very similarly to a normal push bike, with the small exception that the brakes only work when not too much momentum has been built up.

This meant the snow-bike made its unstoppable journey down the mountain, with apparently little recognition of my desperate attempts to wrest it one way or another. I spent more than one terror-filled moment being dragged towards, and then nearly off the edge as I fought to heave back in the opposite direction.

Having made it to the bottom, I was fairly anxious to surrender my cumbersome new transportation for something more sedate, but there was no such luck. I'd left the ‘ski-fox' until last, and now it was time to hurtle down the slopes sat aboard a seat mounted on a single ski.

Funnily enough, by now I was almost enjoying myself, and had paused more than once to admire the mountain magnificence sweeping past as I picked up speed.

Swinging onto the smooth curves of the final approach with the clean mountain air coasting past and the odd marmat running for cover the risk of plunging headfirst into a nearby snowdrift suddenly didn't seem to matter. And handing over my final vehicle I couldn't wait to take the chairlift back over those endless snowy slopes all over again tomorrow. In Switzerland it seems going downhill fast is the only way to travel.

Cube Savognin
Veia Sandeilas 12,
Talstation Savognin Bergbahnen
Tel. +41 (0) 81-659 14 14
Website: www.cube-savognin.ch

Read more: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/feature/284/index/Alternative-Swiss-ski-holidays.html#ixzz0jOR1Q5fS

2010 World Cup City Guide: Part 1

Heading to South Africa for the 2010 World Cup? In the first of a two-part series, read our insider’s guide to each of the host cities to get the most out of your trip.

Durban

Misconception: Surf city is the country's sleepiest city.

Word on the street: Durban's pace may be laid-back but you'll have to move fast to catch the best waves at 0500. Of South Africa's three major cities, Durban is perhaps the most multicultural and has spawned some of the country's best talent - look out for names like designer Amanda Laird Cherry and singers Busi Mhlongo, and Nibs van der Spuy.

Before kick off: The Elephant and Castle on bustling Florida Road and Jack Rabbit's in Morningside offer approximations of an English local, but for something more urbane, try Bean Bag Bohemia and the Beach Café on the beachfront. Spiga d'Oro is the go-to for late-night pasta and pizza. Little Gujarat and Palki restaurants celebrate Durban's Indian hertiage.

The final whistle: The Rainbow Jazz Restaurant is a Durban institution but expect simple tables and quarts of beer. Do swim in the Indian Ocean: the best beaches are to the north (Umhlanga) and south (Scottburgh) of the city. Further afield, the Midlands Meander, an extensive arts and craft's route, makes a pleasant day or overnight trip.

Red card: Avoid Point Road at night. Be circumspect about beachfront hotels; big names are good, but others, generally set back from the beach, have been sliding downhill since the 1980s.

Insider tip: uShaka Marine World is home to one of the five largest aquariums in the world; watch the harbour workings over a drink from the deck of the BAT Centre.

Port Elizabeth

Misconception: A windy city in an industrial wasteland.

Word on the street: It's true that sand might whip your legs when the wind picks up on PE's excellent beaches but renowned Eastern Cape hospitality makes this place a friendly city.

Before kick off: There's not much permanently established around the stadium, so best to do your drinking around Summerstrand and Humewood, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Summerstrand's Boardwalk complex opposite the pier offers a casino, shopping and amusements for the kids. 34°South and 78 Restaurant and Bar dish up excellent fusion and seafood, while the Blue Waters Café hits the spot for cocktails.

The final whistle: Head out of town for a few days to Addo Elephant Park, enjoy outdoor adventures in the Sunday's River Valley and do the 8km (5-mile) Sacramento Trail at Sardinia Bay. Excellent surf spots - Jeffrey's bay, St Francis Bay and Cape St Francis - are an hour away on the N2 motorway. See the working fishing harbour at Port St Francis.

Red card: Steer clear of Happy Valley and other open park areas, particularly at night.

Insider tip: Walk on Shark Rock Pier and enjoy sundowners at any of the nearby pubs. Swim at Humewood and King's Beach and entertain the kids at nearby Bayworld, an oceanarium, snake park and cultural museum.

Cape Town

Misconception: Snobbish locals in this most European of African cities pretend they don't belong to the rest of country.

Word on the street: People in queues will lend you money if you're a few rand short. Cape Town is known affectionately as Slaapstad (Sleepy Town), a play on the Afrikaans name Kaapstad.

Before kick off: Fill up at the 24-hour McDonalds opposite the stadium, which was rebuilt specifically for the World Cup. Stop at Den Anker at the Waterfront for delicious Belgian beer and chips, or try any of the bars in nearby Greenpoint.

The final whistle: Buy the makings of a picnic at the Porter Estate Produce Market on every Saturday morning at the Chrysalis Academy behind the Tokai Forest picnic area. Don't miss the Hoerikwaggo Trail, a five-night, six-day 100km (62-mile) hike from Cape Town to Cape Point.

Red card: Don't walk up Table Mountain alone or without the proper clothing and supplies - it's more dangerous than it looks. Avoid most places in Long Street. Although it's one of the city's oldest streets bristling with shops, cafés and restaurants, it is overrated.

Insider tip: Milnerton beaches are pristine and deserted; Ashton's Restaurant at Greenways Hotel is just as good as the food at the famed Mount Nelson Hotel (or Nelly to locals) but minus the snootiness; you can use the Table Mountain cable car for free on your birthday - take ID to prove it.

Johannesburg

Misconception: An unsightly and dangerous urban sprawl of mine dumps, shopping malls and housing complexes so secure they rival Fort Knox.

Word on the street: Extremely social city in which a counter street culture is developing alongside improved anti-crime measures. It is also the world's largest man-made urban forest, thanks to a city-wide tree planting initiative.

Before kick-off: As Jozi (as it's known to locals) is spread out, it's best to eat before you head off to a match. Parktown, Parkview, Greenside and Melrose Arch have a thriving pavement culture and a host of excellent restaurants and bars. Try Moyo, Gramadoelas and Sophiatown for unrivalled new-African cuisine.

The final whistle: Tour Soweto, passing through Vilakazi Street, once home to Nobel prize winners Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Catch up on South African history at the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. Visit the Rosebank Mall rooftop craft market. Escape to the country on the Crocodile Ramble, an area offering adventure activities, arts and crafts plus spa hotels, or watch the sun rise over the Magaliesberg mountains on a hot air balloon safari.

Red card: Avoid ubiquitous shopping malls; be sensible but not paranoid about security - lock car doors, be discreet with expensive equipment and hold on to your handbag.

Insider tip: Admire the Joburg skyline while sipping a cocktail at Sky Bar in the Holiday Inn Sandton-Rivonia Road - it's the closest you'll get to New York in Africa. Take high tea at the Westcliff Hotel.

Bloemfontein

Misconception: Culturally and topographically flat.

Word on the street: Bloemfontein is built on a series of hills, is home to a thriving arts scene and is central to Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.

Before kick-off: Have a pint at The Mystic Boer, the home of South Africa's alternative Afrikaans rock scene. Most pubs and restaurants, like Beef Baron and Barbas Café, are situated around Westdene; many are franchises, however.

The final whistle: Drive up to the game reserve on Naval Hill in the centre of the city, stopping at the Orchid House, named after its huge collection of flowers, en route. Drive 90 minutes to Kimberley and re-live the diamond rush where the Big Hole, a gigantic, hand-dug crater, is part of the open-air Kimberley Mine Museum.

Red card: As Bloemfontein is an arid city, don't get excited about the Waterfront, which has been described as a "glorified cesspool".

Insider tip: Visit the National Women's Memorial, a memorial to the 27,000 Boer/Afrikaner women and children who died in British concentration camps during the second Anglo-Boer War. Previously unpublished Boer photographs have just been released.

* Read our South Africa World Cup City Guide: Part 2 on 1 March.

Author: Vivienne Hambly

Read more: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/feature/278/index/2010-World-Cup-City-Guide%3A-Part-1.html#ixzz0jOQr5HN7