Seven days in Buenos Aires

A cacophony of speeding cars, brimming restaurants and passionate people, Buenos Aires is not a city for the fainthearted. After 12 months of world-class beef and dimly-lit tango halls, Ruth-Ellen Davis gives her insider's guide to a fun-filled first week in the Argentine capital.

Monday

Pretty Palermo is one of Buenos Aires' most tourist-friendly barrios (neighbourhoods). After a morning wandering around the boutiques of Palermo Soho, pick up some empanadas (savoury Latin American pastries) and take the 30-minute stroll to Palermo Park for a picnic in the rose garden.

After some sunny lounging, head for a hot stone massage at chic Home Hotel's spa (book in advance) followed by a freshly made cocktail at their poolside bar.

Finish your first BA day with the bustling and greasy delights of an Argentine parilla (meat restaurant). Palermo's El Trapiche, Paraguay 5599, is a reliable favourite; as well as thick slabs of prime Argentine beef, the more adventurous can try morcilla (blood sausage), chinchulines (intestines) and molleja (sweetbread).

Tuesday

Tick off one of the city's most popular attractions: La Recoleta Cemetery. This veritable village of tombs is found in the exclusive barrio of Recoleta, and marks the resting place of some of the country's most prestigious figures including Argentina's famous first lady, Eva Perón.

Tuck into a hearty steak sandwich at nearby La Biela, Avenida Quintana 600. Skip dessert and head to Un Altra Volta, Avenida Santa Fe 1826, for a double scoop of their mouthwatering dulce de leche flavour ice cream.

After lunch, explore Recoleta's high-end shops amid the grand French architecture. As evening draws in, hop in a cab to Milion, Paraná 1048 - a wonderfully ostentatious bar and restaurant in a converted mansion - and chill out with a frozen basil daiquiri or three.

Wednesday

Spend a relaxed morning in one of the city's many cafés, enjoying a café con leche (coffee with milk) and as many medialunas (Argentinian croissant) as you can muster.

Head to the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, for a tranquil afternoon taking in exciting works from a variety of Latin American artists and international names; Andy Warhol's Mr America exhibition runs until 9 February 2010.

Thursday

Dive into the hustle and bustle of Florida, Microcentro's pedestrianised shopping precinct, lined with cut-price clothing and cheap leather goods.

Once you've purchased enough five peso T-shirts to last a lifetime, pop into the Richmond Café, Florida 468, once a popular haunt of Buenos Aires' literary and political elite, including the late writer Jorge Luis Borges.

Afterwards, take the short walk to the Casa Rosada, Avenida de Mayo, from whose balcony Eva Perón famously rallied the masses (and 50 years on Madonna sang Don't Cry for Me Argentina in Evita). Every Thursday at 1530, the Madres de Plaza de Mayo - a group of mothers whose children vanished during the military dictatorship of 1976-1983 - walk around the Plaza for 30 minutes, before giving a short speech.

Spend the evening appreciating mouthfuls of Argentina's famously fine wine with an organised wine tasting; Anuva Wines can arrange tastings at restaurants and hotels, as well as in their own cellars.

Friday

Take a tour to La Boca. This colourful barrio has bags of personality, with a continual stream of tourists flocking to see the painted rainbow of houses and arty souvenirs of the pedestrian street Caminito.

La Boca is also home to La Bonbonera - the stadium of BA's most famous team, Boca Juniors. An Argentinian football game is an exhilerating experience, but tourists are targets for pickpockets and crowds can get pretty rowdy. It is wise to book through agencies such as Plan BA who can provide an escort, or larger tour agencies such as Tangol. Whoever you book through, don't leave without picking up a choripan (chorizo sausage in a bread roll) for the authentic experience.

Wind down with an evening's stroll along Puerto Madero's pristine waterfront, and swing by the Faena Hotel and Universe for the city's best tango show, Fridays 2030. After the show, hang out in the fabulous Library Bar; in Argentinian terms, this is a rather pricey place for a drink, but, when surrounded by rich leather, deep red velvet and glittering chandeliers, it seems a pretty justified splash out.

Saturday

After a deservedly lengthy lie in, take a deep green breath at the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550). This nature reserve is popular with tourists and locals a like, and boast lakes, tall grasses and picnickers a plenty.

For a buzzing Buenos Aires Saturday night, either opt for a milonga (tango hall) in San Telmo, where couples of all ages dance cheek-to-cheek right through the night, or, for something more up tempo, party til dawn at one of the super clubs down on Costanera Norte. Pacha, with its terrace and views over the river, is one of the most popular. Clubs don't generally get going until about 2am.

Sunday

The Sunday market on San Telmo street Defensa is a colourful and lively affair, with stalls piled high with antiques, clothing, jewellery, traditional Argentine leather products, paintings and a whole jumble of other items. Street musicians add to the convivial atmosphere and cafés spill out onto the pavement, providing many a spot to people watch.

After heading back to the hotel room for a little nap, finish the week in true Argentine style, with a hearty slab of steak and several glasses of red wine at San Telmo parilla Desnivel, Defensa 858.

Insider tip to Buenos Aires: Keep a good pocketful of change as coins are scarce. Smaller shops will give change in sweets or even refuse to serve you if they don't have enough change. Break larger bank notes at supermarkets and restaurants.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis